Simplify3D Beginner Tutorial: Learn the Basics

2 months ago
A beginners tutorial to 3D slicing software Simplify3D aimed at getting you up and printing as soon as possible. Subscribe for an advanced tutorial coming out ...

English subtitle

Hey everyone today on 3d revolution I'm
going to be taking you through the
basics of how to use simplify 3d
Simplify 3d is a fantastic tool both for
improving your 3d prints and for
optimizing your workflow there are
several other slicers available which
are completely free such as slicer and
Cura and both of these can provide
fantastic results but simplify 3d takes
things to the next level, bringing with
it a nice easy to use and clean user
interface as well as a host of unique
and interesting tools through this video
I'm going to take you through the basics
of simplify 3d from setting it up with
your 3d printer all the way through to
exporting your first model so let's get
There are two ways to set up simplify 3d
for your 3d printer you can either
insert the settings manually or if
you've got a relatively common printer
you may be able to download them in an
FFF profile I've included links to some
in the description below if you manage
to get one for your printer you can
simply come over to file go down to
import FFF profile select it and click
open in doing so you'll be adding that
printer profile to the list of printers
with in simplified 3d alternatively
you'll need to input the settings
manually to do this come down to edit
process settings. This opens up a new
window and this is where you'll find all
the settings not just for your printer
but for the prints themselves for now
however we're just going to be focusing
on getting your printer itself set up. At
the top of this window you'll find
select profile and next to it the drop
down menu if you manage to find an FFF
profile for your printer it will have
been added to this list here for now
select default and we can input your
settings manually. On the extruder tab
you'll find the nozzle diameter setting
this usually comes as default at 0.4 millimeters but just make
sure that this is what your printer
actually come with. As we're currently just
setting up the printer most of these
tabs we can currently ignore let's
select the g-code tab for now this is
where you tell simplify 3d the physical
parameters of your 3d printer it's
currently set up for the flashforge
creator pro and most of these settings
will depend on the exact setup you've
got but let's go through them see you
know what each of them means. The machine
type denotes the actual design of your
printer you can see that there's two
different types this Cartesian robot and
the Delta robot Cartesian robot is your
typical rectangular style 3d printer
this would be like your creator pros and
your maker BOTS the Delta robot is
something that has a cylindrical build
column and this would be something like
a RepRap Fisher for example. The build
volume is the actual area in which a 3d
printer can print this is usually
supplied by the manufacturer but if not
you can fairly easily work it out by
looking at the build plate size and then
the maximum height your nozzle can reach
from the build plate the origin offset
is a setting that you can usually leave
at zero this setting adjusts where the
printer sees the zero setting of each of
its axes at usually this can be fine at
zero however if you find that your
printer is trying to print off of the
build plate you may need to adjust them
usually if you do need to adjust it you
just need to set the X and the y to half
their value of the build volume so for
example here my x axis offset is set to
112.5 half that of 225 and my y axis again is
set to half of what it is in the build volume. That's actually it for this section
and we're almost completed on this tab,
there's only a couple of other bits that
we need to change but most of this can
be left as they are on defaults just
like you can see on my screen here. This
last section however is very important
and you need to make sure that both the
firmware type and the GPX profile match
your own printer and this is something
you're again going to need to check with
your manufacturer. Everything else on
here is going to be specific to the
print that you are going to do
so we can leave the rest of this for
later and just click OK
before importing a model ready for
printing let's take a look at the user
interface, on the left here there are two
different sections, one, which is models
which lists anything we've imported and
two, processes, which will list our actual
print settings and the right-hand side
is a toolbar with various different
functions including different views and
different ways to manipulate the model
once it's being imported it's worth
noting that this can actually be
detached and either left to hover
somewhere else on the screen or mounted
to any side of the user interface
personally i prefer on the right-hand
side to import a model simply click
import select the STL the model you'd
like to print and click OK
here's a very popular baby Groot model
that I printed last week and I find this
a fantastic model for testing and
princes abilities in both detail and
overhangs to move around the model
simply left-click and drag right click
and drag or pan you can zoom using the
mouse's scroll wheel and to reset the
viewpoint at any time just click the
scroll wheel you can also navigate
different views using these buttons on a
toolbar on the side this one just resets
to the default view which are already in
you've got top front and side you can
also turn on and off wireframe view as
well as faces another really useful
feature in simplified 3d the ability to
get a cross-section view simply click
this button here and the new menu pops
up if I slide one of these sliders
across you'll see it starts to hide a
portion of the model this is really
useful for detecting issues which would
normally be obscured by other parts of
the model as you can see you can change
this to any of the three axes and you
can also reverse them to change which
side is being hidden being able to move
around and see a model like this can
really aid in ensuring the
your settings are how you need them to
be during a print using items in the
toolbar you can also reorient it and
manipulate a model these top four ones
here allow you to do different things
within this viewport this top one allows
you to just move around and select items
like we already have been this next item
down allows you to move an object around
on the printbed the one below that
allows you to scale both up and down and
the final one allows you to rotate the
model you can also reorient 8 or resize
your model by double clicking it or
double clicking the name in the models
menu list this brings up a side menu on
the right hand side where you can either
change the name position scaling all
rotation to a very specific degree and
this can be very useful for resizing a
model that's just too big for your
printer taking it down to the perfect
size to fit within its parameters you
can also reset each of these settings in
this menu so if you change something and
you want to take it back to its default
when it was imported click the reset
buttons and you're good to go now after
making any of these changes it's always
good to click the center and rearrange
button what this does is it takes the
model or models on your print bed and
relocates them to fit as centrally as
possible without overlapping as you can
see here baby Groot is now sitting flat
in the center of the print bed this can
be especially useful when printing
multiple items at the same time if I was
to bring another Groot down onto this
print bed now either by selecting it and
copy and pasting it or by importing
another one you'll see that the second
one is now placed off of the print area
if I click Center in a range it will try
and move them essentially as possible
but you can see the second ones still
not quite fitting on there this is
because Center and rearrange doesn't
rotate the items if I now double click
one hold shift and select the other I
can change settings for both at the same
time if I turn the 0 rotation to 90 and
click done is rotated than both together
now if I click Center on a range you can
see it's what then both
centrally on the printbed they're still
slightly over the edges there but you
can see that with a slight resizing this
would work perfectly for now however I
only need the one model so I'm going to
delete one and then unrotated return it
back to the center again it's now time
to start setting up the print settings
for this model to do this go down to
edit process settings as we did earlier
here we'll be applying the settings
which the printer will use when actively
printing this model for now we're going
over only the basic settings that you
need to get a print out of your machine
for a more in-depth lesson and a look at
the other settings check out my advanced
tutorial for now up in the auto
configure for material selection you can
select which material you're using and
this will save the rest the settings
based on that for a future date ensure
that high quality is selected and if you
have multiple extruders on your printer
ensure the correct one is also chosen
both in the auto configure and in the
exterior list extrusion multiplier can
usually be less than its default value
either one or not point nine this is
used for if you having under or over
extrusion for now extrusion width should
also be set to the same as your nozzle
diameter reaction settings are just the
way the printer reacts when it needs to
stop printing to move to another part of
the model the layer tab is an area where
you're probably going to be adjusting
the most between prints the primary
layer height is how thick each layer the
printer lays down is going to be the
lower the number the higher the
resolution or quality of your print top
and bottom solid layers are the amount
of layers that it completely in fills
both from the top and the bottom of the
print the outer perimeter shells sets
how many layers of exterior walls it
will print I would always recommend
inside to out for direction as outside
to in can cause issues with overhangs
these two you can learn about in my
advanced tutorial but for now make sure
they're left unticked getting your first
layer right is very important and it can
make the difference between a successful
model and a failed print these settings
will need to adjust based on how your
printer responds to these settings but
for now aim for 100 130
five percent under additions you've got
several different options skirts and
brim is a very useful feature drawing a
skirt allows you to draw several lines
around the perimeter of your print
before it starts ensuring that you've
got a nice steady flow of filament
before it works on your actual model
raft can be very useful especially if
you're working with lots of thin support
material but generally keep it intact if
you can infill is where we choose how
strong and how densely printed our
models going to be the infill pattern is
the actual shape in which it draws this
infill there's various different shapes
but I generally go with grid it's a
strong and fairly lightweight shape the
infill percentage is how dense it will
be and generally you want to go 5 to 35%
this model can actually print really
well without support materials but for
the sake of showing you I'll keep this
activated this is used for supporting
large overhangs on your model that may
not be able to hold up when printed
directly in the air most of these
settings can be left as they are
but I will be releasing a advance
support material video so please keep an
eye for that one thing I would change
however is putting 45 and minus 45
degrees in the infill angles which will
ensure that it stays nice and strong
it's also worth noting that this
drop-down can be used to adjust weather
automatically generated support material
can be built up from anywhere including
on the model or exclusively from the
print bed itself the temperatures you
select will be based on what sorts of
filament you're using this is set up for
PLA where I usually find that 195
degrees extruder temperature works
really nicely you can set these
temperatures to change depending on the
actual layer that you're printing this
could be that you wanted a higher
temperature for the first layer to
increase adhesion and then to drop it
down when you're on a higher layer or
vice versa the heat bed I generally have
64 PLA you can adjust the speed of your
fans in the same way you did with the
temperature and in the same way as a
temperature these are all specific to
the type of filament you're using
scripts is where you can tell your
printer to do specific tasks at the
beginning of a print at the end of print
and when certain other things happen as
well these are generally pretty standard
and your printer should come with some
sort of starting ending scripts however
you can always modify these my starting
script automatically cleans nozzle on
side of the bed before it starts
printing and my ending trips will play a
noise just so I know the prints finished
the speed is quite important and can
massively affect the quality of your
print the fast the print the more
vibrations there may be and also the
hotter your components are going to get
the slower the print the more controlled
and accurate it can be that you need to
adjust your calling appropriately the
default printing speed is your baseline
all your other printing speeds are based
on a percentage of that speed the only
other speeds are movements where it's
not actively extruding and for now
that's pretty much everything that we
need to change so we're ready to go
ahead and click OK and prepare this for
print with all that in place it's time
to prepare your model for print click
the button on the bottom left of the
screen and I'll begin preparing the
model ready to send to the printer this
process can take a while depending on
how complex the model is and how
powerful your computer is once complete
simplify 3d will show you a preview of
how your model is actually going to
print you can look around this just as
you could before you'd processed it but
now you've got a few more features these
sliders at the bottom allowing to view
the print at different stages through
the process if you zoom in on a model
you can actually see the infill as well
as the support material and you can use
this process to determine whether
there's going to be any issues in
printing and if you need to go back and
change any of your settings it's really
recommended to look through the whole
printing process before starting a print
just to make sure that it's doing
exactly what you want you can actually
get it to play through the entire
process by clicking the play button on
the Left
selecting layers will make it go faster
but it won't show the actual nozzle
print time as well as the amount of
filament that you'll be using is
displayed in the top left of the screen
if you put in the value of your filament
in the settings it will even show you
roughly how much they should cost you
now all is left to do is actually export
your file you can either send it
directly to your printer which I'll show
in a different video or as I would
recommend export it is a g-code file and
save it straight to an SD card ready to
print directly from the printer itself
thanks for watching and remember hit
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